🔙 Quay lại trang tải sách pdf ebook Văn Hóa Ẩm Thực Ninh Bình Ebooks Nhóm Zalo VAN HO A AM THlf C NINH BINH yu5t i VU VAN LAU V A N HOf l A M THI/ C NIN H BIN H N H A XUA T BA N VA N HO A DA N TO C Hd Noi 2005 LCI I Gid i THIE U au cudn "Huang dong gid noi" dugc ban doc LJ (nhat Id hoc sinh cdc trudng) don nhdn rat hao hung, dugc danh gid la cudn sach bo ich cho hoc tap va cudc song; ldn nay tdc gid Vu Vdn Lau cho ra ddi cudn "Vdn hod dm thuc Ninh Binh ". Noi la mot cong trinh nghien ctiu thi chua that khiim ton, nhung qua la tdc gid dd viet no vai niem cdm hung say me, vai bao cong phu sun tam, nghien ngdm, chat loc tung bai, tUng cau, tung y. Qua cudn sach tdc gid mudn noi vai chung ta doi dieu cdm nhan cua anh, vang chi doi dieu thdi, chua dam nghi Id ndi hit, ve cai su an uong - mot thu khong the thii'u dugc de duy tri cudc 5 song, de dam bao cho sit phat trien ndi gidng, sit ton tai vd phat trien ciia xa hoi ( "khong cd an, me cung chet"). Nhitng d day khong chi noi sit an udng thdng thudng ma no da dugc ndng len tam van hod "Van hod dm thuc" nhu cdc cu xUa dd day: "an trong noi, ngoi trong hudng", "an qua nhd ke trong cay ", "udng nude nhd nguon ", v.v...No la ranh gidi phan biet nhitng ngudi "co van hod " vdi ke "pham phu tuc tu". Tdc gid cung mudn gidi thieu vdi chung ta nhitng mon an, thuc udng cua que huang Non Thuy dong Vdn. Co mdn thuc su la dac sdn ciia ddt nay nhu: rugu Lai Thanh, nem Yen Mac, tdi de Cd do, cd rd Tong Trudng, com chay Huang Mai, mien luon Bd Phan, v.v... Nhung ciing co mdn nhieu noi cung cd nhung each che bien, dac biet la huang vi ciia nd lai la cua rieng Ninh Binh, hgp vdi khau vi ngudi ddn ciia ddt Cd dd. Dd a cai tudi "cd lai hy", la ngudi cung cd chut hoc vdn, da trdi qua thu nghiem cudc song vdi nhieu linh vUc vd cuang vi cong tdc, tdi cung 6 cho Id minh hieu biet ve cudc song, nhat la tren linh vUc van hod, nhung khi doc nhiing trang viet nay tdi vdn thay rung ddng, cdm nhdn them nhung dieu mai me vd suy ngdm sau sac them nhung dieu md minh dd biet ve van hod dm thuc. Lai la ngudi gdc ri a Ninh Binh, tdi dd thudng thuc hau het cdc mdn an udng neu a day, nhung qua nhitng trang sach ciia Vu Vdn Lau, tdi lai thay trudc day minh chua thudng thuc het dugc vi nggt ngon cua no, chua biet hoac chua nghi den de thudng thitc, ciing nhuchua biet each che bien cho dung vdi huang vi cdc mdn an udng dac sdn ciia chinh que minh. Ld mot giao vien da titng day vdn a cdc trudng cao ddng su pham, Vu Vdn Lau cd ldi viet van gian di, trong sang vd di ddm, thoang thodng chid "Huang ddng gid ndi", cd phong each rieng, cd sice cudn hid ngudi doc ngay cd nhung dieu ngudi ta dd biet rdi. Chd the md anh chua la mot nhd bao, nhung ten tudi vd nhung bdi viet ciia anh cd mat tren hang chuc td bao, tap chi ciia Trung uang vd dia phuong, cd bdi dd dugc gidi bao chi toan qudc. Dieu nho thdi, l nhung khong it ngudi chi dam nghi den trong giac ma. Vdn de ddt ra thi rong md tdc gid tu nhdn la hieu biet con hqn che, vai khoang 200 trang sach khi em ton elide chdn cdn nhieu dieu chua de cap dugc va td't nhien ciing co nhung thieu sot, rat mong dugc ban doc gop y vd the td't cho. Dau sao theo y tdi, day Id mot cudn sach bd ich ddng de chung ta bo chid it thi gid doc vd suy ngdm. Xin trdn trong gidi thieu ciing ban doc! Nha viet kich AN VIET DAM 8 Pha n I S A C MA U QU E HUON G 9 I . VA I NET VE DIEU KIEN T U NHIEN, XA HOI VA CON NGUOI CO LIEN QUAN DEN VA N HOA A M THUC CUA NINH BINH Tin h Nin h Bin h o cue nam don g bang Bac Bo , n o i tie p gia p gih a Bac Bd vd i Trun g Bo , co dien tic h tir nhie n khoan g 1.400 km 2, phi a bac giap tin h H a Nam ; phi a don g tay giap tin h Na m Dinh , co don g song Da y la di a gid i t u nhien; phia tay n am gia p tin h Than h Hoa , co day nu i da Tam Die p chay theo hudn g tay bac - don g nam la di a gi6i ; phi a tay bac gia p tin h Ho a Binh ; phi a don g n am gia p vin h Bac Bo , co ho n 15 k m b d bien . D i a hin h co the phan chi a theo dac diem khac nhau: phi a tay va tay bac la vun g do i niii , co nhirn g day nu i da vo i an chha nhie u hang don g k y thu . No i tien g co kh u rhn g nguye n sinh quoc gi a Cue Phuon g thuoc huye n Nh o Qua n vd i cay C h o ngan nam va Don g Ngud i Xu a cun g nhie u dong , thuc vat qu y hie m khac . Da y co n la vun g dat tron g duoc nhie u loa i cay con g nghiep nhu : thuoc la , ca phe, lac.. . cay an qua (dura, cam, quyt, nhan, vai , na, chudi...) va phat trie n chan nud i (nhu ; trau, bd , Ion , de (son duong), gi a cam...). Phi a ddn g va ddn g nam cua tin h la vun g don g bang ma u m o trdn g nhie u lua nude va hoa 11 m a u nh u ngo , khoai , san, lac, d6 . Rien g vun g ven bie n (Ki m Son) han g nam duo c ph u sa bo i dap tie n ra bie n t h 80 - 100 m . 6 vun g nay nghe tr6n g lua , tr6n g cdi , nud i trong , dan h bat thu y h a i san rat phat trien . Hie n nay l a vun g nuo i torn su xua t kha u nhie u tie m nan g va trie n von g cua tinh . Nin h Bin h co nhie u song: song Day , song Hoan g Long , song Va c rat thua n lo i ch o viec tud i tieu , phat trie n non g nghiep , nuo i tron g danh bat thu y san. Cun g vd i he thon g giao thon g dudn g thu y no i di a tinh , Nin h Bin h co quoc 16 1 A, quoc 16 10 va cac dudn g lie n tin h tao nen die m giao thon g qua n tron g de phat trie n kin h te xa hoi , an ninh , qudc phon g va giao lu u van hoa giu a ba mie n Bac-Trung-Na m va mie n xud i vd i mie n nguoc . D o dac die m v i tri , cau tao di a hinh , Nin h Bin h vua c d ye u t d co co n lu u lai , vu a c d nhie u y e u t d md i dang hin h thanh , pha t trien , tao nen nhie u canh quan k y thu . Kh u vuc nu i da vd i sat trun g tam th i x a Nin h Bin h duo c xe m nh u "Vin h H a Lon g can" . Giu a th i x a c d nu i Ngo c M y Nha n (Canh Dieu), nu i Thu y (No n Nude ) c d tac hang tram ba i th o cua cac dan h nha n qua nhie u trie u 12 dai. Cach do khon g xa (chua day 10 km ) co thang canh Tam Cdc - Bic h Don g thuoc huye n H o a Lu , mo t tron g nhun g k y quan thien nhien hiem co: "Na m thie n de nh i dong" , vd i mo t vun g son thu y hu u tinh . Da c bie t tren dat Ho a L u co quan the d i tic h lic h su van hoa Din h - Le vd i nhun g dau an lic h su co gi a tri quoc gia , gan vd i 3 dd i vua Dinh , Le , L y vd i su hin h thanh va phat trie n cua qudc gi a phon g kie n dau tie n man g qudc danh "Da i Co Viet" . Ngoa i ra tren dat Gi a Vi6 n - mo t huye n vun g chiem trun g nhat tin h c d thang canh Dic h Long , sudi Ken h Ga va kh u du lic h Va n Lon g no i tieng . Tre n dat Ki m Son cd N h a th d da Phat Die m la con g trin h kie n true doc dao su ke t ho p ha i hoa giua kie n true Tay phuon g va Ddn g phuong.. . Vun g dat Nin h Bin h t h xa xu a da c d ngud i Vie t co c u tr u - ket qua nghie n ch u khao co vun g M a n Bac (Ye n Md ) da cho ta biet r d ho n die u dd. Tin h den 1999 (theo nie n giam thdn g ke 2002 cua Cue Thdn g ke Nin h Binh), dan sd Nin h Bin h cd 909.038 ngudi , phan b d khon g don g deu. Ddn g nhat la th i xa Nin h Binh : 5.397 ngudi/km 2, sau d d l a huye n Ye n M d va Ki m Son c d tren 800 ngudi/km2. Thu a dan nhat la huye n Nh o Qua n c d 13 314 ngudi/km 2. Ma t d o trun g bin h cua tin h l a 657 ngudi/km 2. Cun g gidn g nh u nhie u vun g kha c d don g ban g Bac Bd c u da n tron g tin h thudn g c u t r u theo do n v i thd n (lang), x a truye n thdng . T u y l a tin h khon g ld n (c d 8 huye n thi , 145 xa , phudng , th i tran) nhun g c d nhie u da n tdc anh e m. Nhie u nhat l a ngud i Kinh , tre n 86 va n ngud i (tren 98% ) - sau d d l a ngud i Mudng , ngud i Tay, i t nhat l a Giay , CoTu , Gfc - Trieng.. . V e to n giao : tron g tin h sd ngud i theo dao Phat la 37343 , sd ngud i theo dao Thie n Chu a la 130.946, sd ngud i theo cac to n gia o kha c l a 193, sd ngud i khon g to n gia o l a 714.963 . Ki m Son la huye n c d sd dan theo dao Thie n Chu a ddn g nhat l a 69.177 ngud i - t y l e hie n na y l a 43% . Nha n dan Nin h Bin h d u theo luon g hay theo giao, d u d mie n nui , don g ban g ha y mie n bien nhi n chun g de u c d lon g nha n ai , c d va n hoa tron g sin h hoat, Ung xir, c d tin h tha n lao ddn g can c u va sang tao. Nin h Bin h c d nhie u l e hd i (nh u le hd i din Din h Le , l e hd i den Tha i V i va nhie u nghe th u con g m y ngh e la u dd i no i tieng . Tu* cay co i ciia mie n ve n bie n Ki m Son, qua ba n tay khe o leo cua co n ngudi , co i da tr d than h nhie u ma t hang 14 dep, da dang, phon g phu , tie n dung ; khon g nhiin g phuc v u cho th i trudn g tron g nude ma con l a th h hang hoa duoc nude ngoa i ua chudng. Ngh e kha i thac va tram tr o da cii a Nin h Van , nghe theu ren d thd n Va n La m x a Nin h Hai , nghe md c cua xa Nin h Phon g (deu cua huye n H o a Lu ) la nhun g nghe truye n thdn g va ngay nay dang duoc phat hu y man h me , man g dam phong each, tham m y dan tdc, c d sac tha i rien g cua di a phuong , the hie n r d su can ma n tin h te, gia u tin h nhan van va kh a nang sang tao cua ngud i lao ddng . Ngan h nghe th u con g m y nghe tron g nen kin h te m d hd m nay cua tin h dang hua hen nhie u trie n vong , hoa nhi p budc cun g kh u vuc va the' gidi . D u da pha i tra i qua nhie u bie n c d thang tram, pha i thay do i ten go i nhu : Trudn g Ye n Phu, Chau D a i Hoang , Than h Ho a Ngoa i Tra n rd i Than h Bin h den Nin h Bin h th i man h dat ngay nay van ngay cang tuo i dep, gia u c d van min h ho n bd i ngud i dan no i day vd n duoc thie n nhie n uu dai, l a i c d be day truye n thdn g lic h sh van hoa va c d ban tay, khd i dc cin cu , dun g cam, day sang tao. V d i nhun g die u kie n t u nhien , xa hd i va con ngud i nh u the nhat din h Nin h Bin h se nhanh 15 chon g gia u manh , nha n dan sd m thoa t ngheo , tie n td i co dd i song vat chat va tin h tha n nga y cang cao. I I. NHOlMG DAC SAN VA PHONG CACH A M THUC CUA NGUOI NINH BINH 1 . Da c san v a phon g eac h chun g Vie c an udn g khon g ch i de duo c n o ne ca i da day ma co n can duo c vu i long , dep ma t ngud i tron g cudc va ca ngud i ngoa i cudc . Ca i la m nen v u i long , dep ma t a'y pha i chan g l a va n hoa am thuc? Cau tuc ng u "A n tron g ndi , ngo i tron g hudng " ay la nd i ve mo t net dep, mo t khi a can h c u the ve van hoa am thuc cua dn g cha. M d i mo t dan tdc , mo t vun g mie n c d nen van hoa kha c nha u th i cun g dan den su kha c nha u ve phon g each an udng : t h kha u lu a cho n thuc pham, che bien , bay bie n 16 ngh i va each tie n hanh. Ngud i theo dao Thie n Chu a trud c kh i an g i o tay la m dau, nhk§ u no i ngud i Vie t trud c kh i an udn g c d chao md i ngud i cao tuo i va ngud i chun g quanh. Pha i chang day cun g l a net dep rien g rat va n hoa tron g am thuc? Ngud i theo dao Thie n Chu a va nha n dan d 16 tin h Nin h Bin h cun g co phon g tuc do. Cu* dan Nin h Bin h 6 cue nam d6n g bang Bac Bo chac chan co chi u anh hudn g true tiep va sau sac cua van hoa am thuc phuon g Bac cho nen ta khon g thay la m la ngud i Nin h Bin h rat thic h an ph d Ha Ndi , ph d Na m Dinh . Td i den, d mo t sd dudn g p h d ddn g due th i xa Nin h Binh , cd nhie u ngudi , ddn g nhat la thie u n u ngd i an ng d nudng , de ludc , bu n dc.. . Pha i chang c d net na na ca i th u an cho i ban td i cua ngud i H a Ndi ? Cun g nh u ngud i Bac, nhi6 u ngud ^. dS Bin h thay khon g ho p kha u v i lam kl i an ph d i n h Sai G d n hoac an mo t sd md n c d tra nhipu^iuotJg dt, tdi , dudn g cua mie n Trun g va Na m Ed.^alt k lac ngud i Nin h Bin h cun g rat chi u kh d an puJrlg hur man md i nh u tep khd , ca kh d cua mrdn . trun g T u y vay, khon g pha i luc nao kha u v i cua ngud i Nin h Bin h cun g chi u anh hudn g t h ben ngoa i ma van c d nhun g net rien g ddc dao. Chin h cai ddc dao, ddc lap lam nen ban lin h vun g vang, phon g each sin h hoat van hoa cii a md i ngudi. Tuon g truye n Din h Tie n Hoan g la v i Hoan g de dau tie n cua nude Da i Cd Vie t c d sd thic h an lon g Io n tie t canh. Md i lan thang tran, dn g thudn g cun g tudn g si thudn g thi c md n an rat 2-VHAT 17 quen thuo c dan da nay. Ne u l a su tha t th i day pha i chan g l a mo t net dep ve ca tinh , l a mo t tron g nhun g bie u hie n d u ch i l a ch i tie't nh o ve am thuc cua mo t Hoan g de xua t tha n t u ch u be cha n tra u tre n don g noi . Ban ve va n hoa am thuc cun g nh u ngud i ta tap b o i giu a bie n ca. N o l a lin h vu c v o cun g phon g phu , da dan g va sau rong . 6 da y ngud i vie t ch i x i n gh i la i nhun g cam nha n ba n da u ch u qua n cua min h ve mo t sd khi a can h tron g phon g each am thuc cua ngud i Nin h Binh . Thdn g qua vie c gid i thie u so luo c mo t sd md n an dan da m a nay c d the da tr d than h dac san cua di a phuong . Nhun g md n an dan da na y l a nhun g md n an thudn g nha t cua sd ddn g l a ngud i bin h dan, ngud i lao ddn g o Nin h Binh . 2. Da c sa n v a phon g eac h vun g mie n X i n duoc die m qua va i net v6 mo t sd md n an dac san va phon g each a m thu c cua tun g vun g mien . - Vung tay bde cua Nin h Binh : day l a vun g chie m trun g va run g nu i cua ha i huye n c d t h lau ddi , d d l a Gi a Vie n va Nh o Quan . Da t Gi a Vi6 n c d x a Gi a Trun g sau trun g nha't huye n c d d d cao dud i ma t nud e bie n 0,3 m , l a no i "chie m khe, 18 m u a thdi" , "sdng ngam da, chet ng&m xuong" . Chan g ma y a i xa u so qua dd i giua mu a l u lu t th i pha i budc quan ta i trd i no i 6 gdc cay, ch d kh i nude can md i co no i chd n cat. Va y nhun g dan 6 day rat can man , tan tien , thudn g ngay an rau muoi , bat de m d cua, do m ca ri u tep kie m sdng, nud i co n an hoc thanh tai. Cd nhie u ngud i xua t chun g thanh dat. Die n hin h la Din h Tie n Hoang , Din h Dien , Nguye n Bac, Trin h Tu , Lu u Co, Trin h Ldi . V i l a ddn g chiem trun g nen d day c d nhie u dc nhd i nay da tr d thanh dac san. Cau ca: Mudn an cua roc dc nhdi Dem con ma gd cho ngudi ddng chiem N a y dc nhd i da c d them di a ch i khac d d la nha hang, khac h san d ngay thanh ph d ldn , dc nhd i len ngd i dac san. Ngoa i dc nhdi , ma m tep cun g n o i tie'ng thorn ngon . Nga y trudc nghe ri u tep d day rat phat trie n . Ma c d u nghe nay vat va lam, pha i ngam min h dud i nude giua mu a ret mud t nhun g cun g tha'y hay bd i thudn g cd chon g du n riu , v o da i tep ke cun g tinh . Ma m tep d day chin h hie u tep riu , danh co n nen ma m d d au, vira thorn, vua ngo n ngo t dam da, nhie u no i ua chudng . Ngoa i dc nhd i va ma m tep no i tien g Gi a Vie n 19 c o n no i tien g mo n ca r o Ton g Trudn g v a cha o h e n (c o le do ngheo kho , ch i d u gao na u chao hoa nhun g b u vao la i co rud t va nud e he n th i chao la i ngo t bo gan duo c nh u chao ga). C o n vun g nu i rhn g Nh o Qua n - dan c u thua thdt, nhie u dan tdc Mudng , Ta y sin h sdng . d day c d cac san vat qu y hie m cua rhn g Cue Phuong , c d ruo u can no i tieng , c d nude khoan g Cue Phuon g dang duoc con g nghe hie n da i kha i thac . Ngoa i ra o Nh o Qua n co n c d cac loa i man g ddn g va nhie u thi t th u rhn g qu y hiem . - Vung ddng nam cua Nin h Bin h l a huye n K i m Son, mie n bien . Da y l a vun g dat mdi , tr u phi i c d nhie u thuy , ha i san quy . Ngud i Ki m Son man g dang dap tin h each cua mie n bie n kh a rd . H o chan chat, kho e manh , an cun g khoe . Nhun g than h nie n cudn g tran g man h me , ngu c n d go ghe nh u da tang. Nguo c lai , ph u n u Ki m Son c d nhie u c d ga i nude da tran g ngan me m mai , c d d d i ma t m o mang , sau tha m hao hao guon g ma t dhc me Mari a va c d gion g nd i van g tron g nh u tien g chudn g nga n cua nha th d x u Dao . K i m Son c d nhie u dac san bien , thdn g dun g la cua, ca bien . Da c bie t md n cha ruo i l a mieng , m d n bu n mo c Quan g Thien . Ruo u Ki m Son rat 20 n o i tien g khon g ch i 6 tron g tin h ma co n no i tieng kha p ba mie n (Bac , Trung , Nam). Ngoa i ra d day c o n co thd i quen an va da i khac h bang mo n goi . G o i torn, go i ca, nhat la go i ca nhech: ca tuoi , l a m sach, danh vay, bo xirong , go i la sung, la loc vhng , go m ca, giam, rau thorn, co huon g v i rieng , mat, bo rat an tuong . - Vung nam Nin h Bin h giap tin h Than h Hoa , bao go m th i x a Tam Die p va mo t phan huye n Y e n Mo . Th i x a Tam Die p md i duoc thanh lap 1982. Co n Ye n M o la vun g dat co. 6 day co d i c h i Ma n Bac co gi a tr i khao co hoc cua qudc gia. Nha n dan no i day vd n c d truye n thdn g can cu lao ddn g va rat hie u hoc, c d lang van hoa Nd n Kh e va lan g Kho a Bang Cd i Tr i thuoc die n nd i tieng nhat tinh , vd i nhil u danh nhan van hoa, khoa bang nhu : Nin h Dic h (tie n si), Nin h Da t (Hoan g Giap), Nguyd n Th e (quan cong).. . Da c san no i tien g no i day cd nem Ye n Mac , lac nhan Ye n Nha n va bu n mo c Nd n Kh e (Ye n Th). Rien g th i x a Tam Die p la vun g dat md i duoc kha i pha, m d man g nhun g cun g da cho nhie u san pham c d gi a tri xua t kha u nh u dua Ddn g Giao, vai , nhan, na da i cua cac trang tra i va nha vudn , c d nha ma y d o ho p hoa qua kha hie n dai. 21 D a c bie t d day co n lir u truye n ca u tuc ngh : Khon udng che Trai Dai udng che Me (thuoc Nho Quan) Me bao khong nghe udng che Bong Lang. N e u ai ve Tam Diep , ghe Qua n Chao , den Da u thudn g thuc bat nude che xan h Ba Tra i thud c x a Quan g Son th i x a Tam Die p tha y ngud i ma t me , than h thoat, nhe nhd m nhan h chon g nh u c d tha n duoc . Cd le dat da i d day thic h ho p vd i vie c tron g che. Che kh d Tam Die p ngo n nha t tin h c d gi a tr i xua t kha u cao. - Vung trung tam Nin h Bin h l a vun g ddn g bang chau tho , gd m th i x a Nin h Bin h va mo t phan huye n Ho a Lu , ch i each H a Nd i c d tren 90 cay sd la i gan k e vd i C d d d Ho a Lu , dat Tran g A n xu a nen dan d vun g nay c d nhun g net g i day, nhat l a phon g each am thu c i t nhie u dan g dap ngud i th u dd . Bd i "da u khon g than h lich , cun g ngud i Tran g An" . T h xu a d da y da c d ba i ca ve m o t le cud i tudn g tuon g ma nha n dan Nin h Bin h cun g gd p mat. D o ye u t d di a ly , lic h su x a hdi , va n hoa tac ddng , chac chd n phon g each a m thu c no i nay vua c d ye u t d dan da vu a c d ye u t d than h lich . Bie u hie n r d nhat l a phon g each an udng , c d ba n d x a 22 Nin h Than h cu , die n hin h l a tho n Phuc A m nay thuoc trun g tam th i xa Nin h Binh . Trudc day va bay gi d so vd i cac noi , c d ban duoc la m kh a tuo m tat, thudn g cd bat di a co, dua son vd i cac m d n gid , nem nin h mo c kh a phon g phii , ngo n mieng . A n xon g c d trang mien g bang banh trai; m d i mo c cun g rat can trong , cun g kinh . C o n ngud i d day cd phon g each am thuc rat da dang nhun g net chun g l a kh a khan h an. Nhun g hang an ke m chat luon g phuc vu , thie u tin h van hoa, tham m y thudn g thua khac h va nguoc lai . N d i v6 dac san, d day kha phon g phu , nhun g n o i bat van la md n co m chay ddc dao. Nh a hang Huon g Ma i tren dudn g Tra n Hun g Da o c d hang tram khac h den an co m chay hang ngay. D a c san mie n luo n cun g no i tien g khon g kem. M d i ngay md i cha hang ba ngud i con cua ba Phan c d sd khac h den an sang hang tram ngudi. Da c san ta i de d day cun g rat thin h hanh. Cd hang true hang ddn g khach . Da c biet M a Ye n Son quan d kh u din Din h md i ngay tiep dd n hang tram khac h d u ljch . Chan g r d t h bao gi d d day da lu u hanh cau ca ma nd i dun g cun g rat dan da: 23 Tdi de chdm vdi tuong gung An vdo mdi thd'y bifng bung mau de Ngudi ai, ngudi a ddng ve Ngdy mai ta lai tdi de, tuong gitng D a n d day vo n da phan l a do cac huye n th i d i c u td i nen ho man g theo nhun g phon g each am thuc cua di a phuon g min h v i the t u nhie n hin h thanh su da dang tron g va n hoa am thuc . Ngoa i ra th i xa Nin h Bin h co n rat nhie u cac qua n am thuc man g ten cac tin h than h kha c nhu : ph d Hue , p h d H a Ndi , ph o Na m Dinh . Phon g each am thuc pha tap phon g ph u d day l a mo t thuc te nhun g khon g x d bd , v d ldi , c o ban va n gi u duo c ca i net thanh lic h cua mo t th i xa gan C d d d va th u d d Ha Ndi . Ben canh nhun g din h cao ve dac san, phon g each an udn g cua cac vun g mie n the hie n tin h van hoa nhun g cun g co n khon g i t nhun g hie n tuon g chua van hoa - gidn g nh u tron g thun g gao nep tran g thor n van co n nhun g hat san. 6 mo t sd x a ven bie n co n to n ta i h u tuc nh u an c d gian h la i m o t phan de cun g nha u chi a pha n man g ve, c d n o i nhi n c d de dat tie n mung . Cd no i co n phan bie t dd i xu , loa i khac h sang hen, dan dn g co i thudn g ph u nu , khon g ngd i cun g ma m vd i ph u 24 n u . La i co no i co n chem to kh o ma n khon g bie t che bien . Co n nhie u hie n tuon g lang phi: thuc an de thira mha , vo td i va, chuc tun g do ca xud'ng dat... cun g la mo t bie u hie n thie u van hoa (tron g k h i nhie u ngud i co n pha i ch u tr o nha cua, luon g thuc). T u y Nin h Bin h co nhie u die u kie n kha thuan l o i nhun g viec kha i thac su dun g phat hu y cua c o n ngud i con c d nhun g nan che, nen day van la m o t mie n que ngheo lam lu . Bie u hien r d nhat la su an d cua dan chun g rat dam bac, tan tien. H o thudn g xuy6 n an cac th h san pham t u kie m duoc n h u cua, dc, ca, tep, rau tap tang, rau lang, rau din , rau cai. Xu a ki a it kh i ngud i dan c d thit hoac cac loa i rau qua cao cap ma an. Bd i kh i do cac th h thuc pham nay rat dat do, khan hiem, ch i c d nha gia u d thanh ph d ma y ra md i cd thudn g xuyen . Nhun g gi a din h ndn g dan nhie u kh i nua n am md i cd mo t lan mu a duoc m d Io n de danh che bien thhc an. T u y vay, bang su can cu, sang tao, ngud i Nin h Bin h da bie t che bie n nhun g san pham cua min h du dan da, re tie n nhun g van rat ngo n lan h va khon g ke m phan sang trong . A i dam bao an ca kho , rau ludc , canh sudng la khon g sang trong . 25 Tra i la i ne u duoc che bie n ve sinh, hin h thu c dep, h a p kha u vi , co phon g each an dep th i va n la nhun g mo n an khon g thu a ke m dac san. V d i y nghi a do, 6 day xi n duoc gid i thie u mo t so mo n an dan da hay dun g nhat tron g da n chun g n h u cac mo n mud i mam , mo n kho , mo n canh, dua chua.. . thudn g tha y d Nin h Binh . * Ve cac mon mam mudi Ngud i Nin h Bin h cun g nh u nhie u ngud i dan kha c d ddn g ban g Bac B d c d quan nie m "Ld i chao cao ho n ma m cd " nen trudc kh i an thudn g c d ld i chao md i ngud i chun g quan h de gi u phep lic h su. Ch o den ba y gi d thd i quen nay va n con d u y tri , la net dep va n hoa trudc tie n cua am thuc . Nd i dun g cua ld i chao la i cun g rat khie m ton , d £ thuong . C d kh i md i an co m c d ca thit, hoac c d ban r d ran g m a ngud i ta va n nd i rang: "Md i co m ra u mam" . Hoa c ruo u Ki m Son ro ran g ma bao la : "Xi n cun g chen ruo u nhat".. . T r d la i md n an ma m mudi , vd i ngud i ndn g dan ngheo xu a d Nin h Bin h l a md n an ch u cong . V e mud i cun g nhie u md n nh u mud i vung , mud i lac, mud i gac h cua , tham ch i do n gia n ch i mo t 26 thi a ma m tor n trd n vd i ha i thi a mud i l a duoc mo n mud i ma m torn . Cac mo n muo i nay no i chung dt lam, de duoc lau , re tie n v i nguye n lie u chin h la muo i man . Co le chin h dac die m nay ma nhie u gi a din h cun g t o tie n bao gi d cun g co di a mudi . Tron g sd cac loa i mudi , c d mud i vhn g khon g c h i pho bien , tie n dun g ma c d huon g v i thorn ngo n rat hap dan, vi m lanh, vha bo ma thanh dam dac bie t c d v i thorn ha'p din . Ne u rang rd i bd cd'i gi a th i huon g thor n chat ca nam gian nha. Chin h b d i vay cho den bay gi d c d nhid u md n an cao cap, nhil u ngud i van con thic h an mud i vhng , cun g c d the co n do ch u nhan van nh d ve mo t thd i ngheo kh o ch i c d "gtmg cay mud i man" . G a n gu i vd i cac md n mud i la cac mo n mam. Die n hin h l a ma m tep, ma m torn, ma m cay, ma m cua, ma m ca, dan tdc Mudn g co n cd ma m ngoe... Md n mam , thanh phan ch u yeu la ddn g vat, phan nhn§u la thu y san, thudn g b d thin h cho len me n de thd i gia n thic h ho p la an duoc. Cac m d n nay kh i che bie n pha i ch u y kha u ve sinh, ngud n nude sii dun g pha i sach md i tranh duoc m a m "uon" , ma m "thdi" . Cac loa i ma m nay dun g duoc da i ngay, c d nhie u chat dam, v i ngot, thorn. Md n nude ma m duoc co i l a tin h tuy cua 27 m o n ca (v i nguye n lie u ch u ye u l a ca). Nhi6 u kh i c h i co nhat mo n tron g ma m com , d o l a bat ma m dun g tron g nhun g ngay mu a gi d khon g r a dong. kie m thuc an duoc . Tron g cac mo n ma m d non g tho n Nin h Bin h thudn g xuye n la ma m tep. Ddn g chie m trun g Gi a Vid n c d rat nhie u tep. Da n c d ngh e riu . Thudn g thay chon g ri u v o da i tep. Con g vie c tie n hanh vao than g mudi , mud i mo t ra t ret mud t vat va, d am ngud i tron g nude nhun g k e cun g rat vui . M d tep tuo i nhay len rao rao, duo c ba n tay khe o leo cua cac me , cac ch i (ma t tay ) la m ma m se cho nhun g h u ma m vu a ngo t vu a thorn . Dd i vd i nhun g ngud i ndn g dan quan h na m la m l u mam tep d d au chan vao bat co m md i tran g phau tudn g khon g c d g i dep bang, thor n ngo n hap dan bang. M a m tep duoc kh o vd i thi t ba ch i th i ta an tam bat lie n van co n mud n an nua. Ngoa i ma m tep, ngo n rau lang , rau mudn g no n xan h me m duoc cham vd i bat nude ma m cay v i da m ngot, huong thorn rat rien g cun g khon g ke m pha n th u vi . D a m bac ma am ap tin h ngudi . 28 * Ve mdn kho K h o cun g co rat nhie u mon : kh o ca, kh o thit (thit Ion , ga, bo...), kh o dau, kh o tuong.. . Co le day la mo t each che bie n thuc an co truyen thon g lau dd i cua dan toe. Tre n kha p cac dia phuong d dau cun g dun g md n kho . Md n nay gan b d vd i ngud i lao ddn g ngheo nhie u hon . Bd i it kh i ngud i ta dun g md n nay de' da i khach sang. Dac biet vd i nhun g nha gia u h o khon g dung md n kh o de lam c d ban sang trong . Tu y nhien d ndn g thdn , ma i den nhun g nam tam muo i cua the k y X X , md i thay vang bon g dan md n thit kh o (con g o i la thit rang) tren ma m cd. D a c diem che bie n chun g cua cac md n kh o la cho mud i dam ho n cac md n nau, nau canh, duoc nin h k y ludn g hon , la thhc an c d the de dai ngay. Cd rat nhie u md n kh o kha c nhau va su dun g nhid u chat ph u gi a kha c nhau. Th i du md n ca k h o ngud i ta c d the cho them chud i xanh cat khuc hoac qua gao bo ddi , qua sung xanh v i day la nhun g qua c d v i chat c d kha nang kh u chat tanh cua ca rat hie u qua. Md i di a phuong, tham c h i md i gi a din h la i c d nhun g sang tao rien g de tan dun g nguye n lieu , de ho p kha u v i nen che bien cac md n kh o kha c nhau, do dam nhat, mh c 29 do dun g lua k y hay so tu y tun g ch u nhan . Su thay do i each thuc che bie n co n nha m tran h su la p la i nham chan cho cac bu a an. Chudn g l a la m o t tron g nhun g ye u to hie u k y cua co n ngudi! M o n kh o thon g dun g ca xu a la n na y 6 Nin h Bin h co le trudc nhat l a md n ca kh o nie u dat. Ca k h o nie u dat c d truye n thdn g t h la u d vun g ndn g thd n va ca thanh thi . Ch i c d di6 u trud c d d da cd thd i gia n kh a da i ngud i ta xe m thudn g n d bd i chudn g thi t Ion , thi t b d hon . De n gi d kh i cac loa i thi t Io n da qua si n de n mu c nha m chan , co n thit b d gi a than h la i qua cao khon g ho p vd i tu i tien, nen nhie u ngud i la i tha y md n ca kh o l a md n hap dan. Dun g la kha u v i cua md i ngud i cun g bien d o i theo thd i gian , theo nh u cau tam sin h l y lha tuoi . Ha u het nhun g ngud i co n tre kho e va n thic h an nhun g md n nhie u dam, nhie u md . D d l a cac loa i thi t ddn g vat nh u Ion , bd , chd , de, vd i nhie u g i a vi . Co n nhun g ngud i tuo i da cao th i nhun g m d n an dam bac, d o nga n nh u ra u qua , ca, tep, c am tha'y dt an va an duo c nhie u hon . Bd i vay m d n ca kh o duoc nhie u ngud i cao tuo i ua chudng . Md n ca kh o cun g duo c gid i tre ua dun g v i khon g mud n beo phi . Ngoa i r a ca kh o co n co nhun g u u the ma nhie u md n an kha c khon g cd, do duoc kh o k y chay canh nen ca kh o l a md n an 30 vua lan h vha b o d i tieu do i vd i ngud i yeu 6m; ngud i de, ngud i gi a dun g rat an toan. Ca kh o de duoc lau. Ngud i sanh an thic h an ca ddn g kh o tron g nie u dat nhun g pha i theo qu y trin h dan da nghiem ngat md i ngo n ch h khon g pha i nh u ca k h o d nha hang - kh o ca tron g nd i nhdm, che mau , nh h rd i md i chuye n sang nie u dat vu i qua lua . Ca chua ki p ngam d u mu i v i cua gia v i da d em ra dung . Rd i mud n cho ca kh o c d chat keo s6n s6t hap dan, ngud i ta la i cho them it bdt vao, de day mu i th i tang them hanh, tdi , md , tang v i t h i tra them dudng , them m i chinh . Ngud i an cai lud i b j danh lha . Ca i chan chat thorn ngo n cua ca k h o nie u dat dau co n nha? Nhun g du sao ca kh o d cac nha hang van duoc co i la dac san hap dan. Sau md n ca kh o la md n thit kho . Con go i la m d n thit rang cun g duoc ngud i dan Nin h Bin h dun g nhieu . Tu y nhien, each day khoang nam chuc nam, md n nay ngud i ngheo cun g it duoc an, mo t nam chua no i nam bay lan. Thi t kh o (thit rang) cun g c d nhie u loa i nh u thit Ion , thit ga, thit bd... D a go i la thi t kh o th i thudn g c d v i dam, do it nude de danh an duoc va i ngay. Nhun g gi a din h ddn g ngud i thudn g dun g md n thit kh o cho tien . 31 * * * * Mon canh Sau cau cua mien g cua ngud i ndn g dan "cam m a m mudi " l a "ca m canh " "ca m rau" . Can h la m o t tron g nhun g md n an ch u luc , c d the l a du y nhat tren ma m co m cua nhie u gi a din h ndn g dan xua . Ma m co m c d md n kho , md n can h da l a kha tuo m tat. V i duoc dun g thudn g xuye n nen cam v d i canh ha u nh u la mo t cap song hanh. Ha i v o chon g kh d d vd i nhau , tin h cam v a chon g b i sut me , dan gia n nd i ran g "co m chan g lan h canh chang ngot" . Tre n ma m co m cua ngud i bin h dan thudn g cd ba th h thudn g xuye n d d la rau , ma m (mudi ) va canh. Nhie u ngud i cam nha n ran g co m c d canh "de nudt " va ma t rud t hon , hin h nh u n d c d tac dun g gia i nhie t nhan h chon g hon . Md n canh gia u tin h thie n nhie n va dam da huon g v i ddng n d i va man g sac tha i di a phuon g r d ret. Bd i d vun g nao c d nhie u loa i rau qua g i an duoc th i thudn g lay loa i d d la m nguye n lie u ch o nd i canh cua minh . Cun g la nhun g md n an c d nhie u nude nhun g c h i c d ke m theo ra u qua ngud i ta md i go i la md n 32 canh nhu : canh bi , canh bau, canh rau day, canh rau ngot canh cai, canh can. Ne u khon g co cac t h h rau qua ke m theo ay thudn g duoc go i l a rieu , dam nau, rie u cua, dam ca, nau ca nhat... Tron g mo n canh, nude chiem t y tron g ld n nhat, dung de chan com. Nd i ve canh rau, ca dao cua ta cd nhifeu cau that ch i l y cho nhun g ai ch i mud n "tra u ta an cd ddn g ta" ; Co con md gd chong gan Du bat canh can nd ciing dem sang T h u v i ho n la i c d cau ca: Rau torn nau vdi rudt bau Chong chan va hup gat dau khen ngon D u ngheo den ma y ngud i ta cung khon g the dun g rud t bau na'u canh ma an. Nhun g d day rud t b £ u duoc na'u canh vd i rau torn ma kh i ha i v o chong cun g an la i tha'y ngo n lanh. Ca i ngo n d day pha i chang la ca i ngo n tron g tin h cam ye u thuon g n d da hoa than vao ca su vat, khie n rud t bdu ki a cun g thanh ngot ngao tuo i md i va dem l a i cho ngud i thuon g thuc tin h ye u dat dao hanh phuc. Cd rat nhie u loa i canh, canh chua (rau qua cd v i chua): canh khe , sau, chap, me , dua chua, canh ngot, cac loa i ca cua thi t ket hop vd i cac rau qua cii . 3-VHAT 33 Que n thuoc nhat 6 Nin h Bin h l a cac loa i can h r a u ca i (ca i bap, ca i cu , ca i be). Ca ro , ca qua, ca tre don g ma na u vd i ca i be b o them gi a v i ghn g t h i thorn, cay day mu i ngo n mien g bie t may. Cac loa i ca tre n na u vd i ra u can cun g khon g ke m phan hap dan. V d i loa i ca d6n g nay ta co the na'u vd i nhie u loa i rau c u qua kha c nha u nh u bau , bi , mud p dang rat ngon , rau qua thudn g co d u ph u gi a vi . C o n nau vd i gi , dam nha t r a sao la i tu y thud c vao die u kie n va kha u v i cua md i di a phuong , md i ngud i khon g the' c d con g thu c chung . Die u dang lu u y , bua co m c d md n canh ngud i .an pha i c d hie u biet, t h to n gi n gi u ne u khon g d6 t r d than h ngud i thie u va n hoa am thuc . Kh i an c o m c d canh, cha me thudn g nhac nh d co n chau: pha i nha i k y lh a het xuon g (ne u l a canh ca) keo chet hoc th i tdi . Kh i nud t co m can h can t h t h nhe nhang neu hoc tdc se phat r a nhun g am thanh "roa n roat" , "un g uc" , "x i xup " kh d nghe , tham c h i b i sac rau can h td i ra ha i I d mui . Ne u an canh sudng hoac canh cua c d ca ghem kh i can ghem pha i lu a phan ma u cua qu a ca vao phi a tron g v d m mieng , ne u khon g qua ca se phut toe hat ra ngoai, ban vao ngud i chun g quanh , ma t lic h su. 34 C o n nfia , cam thi a hoac m6 i chan canh cho dun g kieu , ch d lam don g tac chan canh nh u tat nude, hoac de thi a mo i nam ngua h d henh giua bat canh tron g khon g dep mat. Ma t khac mu c canh cun g dun g vuc man h cho day mo i hoac chan canh day bat de canh kho i vang tran ra ngoai... * * * * Mdn dtfa chua D u a cun g co nhie u mon , dac trun g chun g l a v i chua, nguye n lie u ch u ye u la cay, la, cu, qua tron g hoac kie m duoc tren rudn g vudn . U dua chua thuc chat l a qua trin h gay me n del cay, cu, qua co v i chua ngo t dun g tron g thefi gian kha da i ma khon g hong . Tu y nhie n neu khon g can than, tron g kha u ve sinh tay rua sach nguye n lieu , do dun g va ngu6 n nude de lam dua hoac de no i nhie t do qua cao dua se d6 b i ung, khu . M a dua da b i kh u th i chang kha c nao "nude ma m cay cha'm lon g Io n thiu" . Du a khu , ca tham ch i co bo d i l a tot nhat. D u a chua khon g ch i do n gian la mo n an re ti6n , tie n dun g ma no co n thudc phon g each, sd thic h cua ngud i dung . Tron g mam c d no i din h d a m hoac nha hang sang trong , luc nao cun g c d 35 d o i ba ngud i cho n gap mien g du a chu a la m kha i v i . Mo t l a ngud i ta cam tha'y nh u va y l a t h to n hon , ha i l a n d c d tac dun g kic h thic h tuye n nude bo t hoat ddn g man h ngay t h da u de an cac th h sau ngo n mien g hon , ba l a c d nhun g ngud i thic h an cua chua, dua chua thuc su ne n c h dun g dua vao bat dua nhie u ian . D i a dua ngo n trud c nhat pha i c d d d chua vua pha i ho p kha u vi , neu b i ma n qua se ma t v i ngot cua dua . Du a can duoc nen chat, la y r a co n mdi , cung , an cam thay gidn , khon g c d v i dan g chat. D u a an d nha han g hie n nay d6 c d nhhn g nhuoc diem, do cay qua thudn g duoc ngud i ta cham b d n bang nhi6 u phan hoa hoc va chat kic h thich . D u a trud c het l a md n an bin h dan, i t kh i ngud i ta bay dua le n nhun g ma m c d ba n sang trong . T u y nhie n cun g c d nhun g md n dua chu a cao ca'p hay dun g tron g nga y Te t am lic h nh u du a hanh. M d n dua cun g c d nhi£ u loa i va the o kha u v i rien g ma ngud i ta ua dun g loa i nao. Tron g nhGng ngay mu a ban rd n ngud i ta thudn g an dua thay r a u tuo i ch o tien . Du a c d the la m t h cac cu (hanh, c u cai, kieu , su hao), qua nh u (du a chudt, ca ghem, ng d bao tu...), than l a (cac loa i ra u cai, 36 rau can rau ma...) cun g mo t so gi a v i (nh u mia , dudng , gieing, rau ram, hanh tuo i ...) . T o m lai , mo n dua chua xhn g dang la ngud i ban ddn g hanh cua nhun g md n an giau dam, nhie u m o kha c gd p phan cho su an udng them phon g phu , th u vi . Ngoa i nhun g md n an dan da, da i chung, se la thie u sot neu khon g diem qua va i net v6 cac md n an chay, an kien g cua bd phan ddng bao theo dao d Nin h Binh . Nh u d phan tren da gid i thie u Nin h Bin h c d ha i to n giao ldn : Phat giao va Thie n Chua giao. T y le nhun g ngud i dan theo dao d day la khon g nhd . Ca ha i dao c d d Nin h Bin h kha sdm, dao Phat phat trie n man h t h thd i Dinh , Ly , Tran , Le . Da o Thie n Chua c d sau nhung so vd i nhul u no i cun g thudc dien sdm. nam 1627 da c d xtf dao d Ha o Nho , Ye n Md , sau dd hin h thanh nhanh chon g d Ki m Son, Ye n Khanh.. . Ngud i c d dao theo mo t ti n ngudn g rieng nen ngoa i nhun g net van hoa chun g ho con co nhun g net rien g bie t tron g d d cd phon g each am thuc the hie n r d nhat tron g cac md n an chay, an kieng . Q u y din h vie c an chay, an kien g cua ca ha i dao c d mu c dic h gan nh u nhau va rat chat che cu 37 the. Song m6 i dao cun g co nhun g die m kha c nhau , dao Thie n Chua , theo gia o lua t khoa n 1258, Ho i don g Gia m mu c Vie t Na m c o quye t dinh : budc an chay va kien g thi t ha i nga y l a Th h T u L e Tr o va Th h Sau Tua n Thanh . Cac nga y th h sau quan h nam, co the thay kien g thi t ban g mo t vie c dao dhc hay mo t vie c t h thie n bac ai.. . V e tuo i co qu y dinh : cac ti n hu u d u 14 tuo i trd n buoc kien g thit , d u 18 tuo i iro n buo c an chay den het tuo i 59 sang tuo i 60. Nhun g qu y din h cua dao Phat co n sau ron g hon , khon g ch i an kien g theo ngay, mu a chay n h u Thie n Chua giao m a an kieng , an chay lie n tuc dd i vd i cac tang ni , Phat th , cac ti n d o va ca nhun g ngud i sung dao t u nguye n thuc hien . Dd i v d i cac Phat t u ta i gia , dao Phat ne u c u the ha i loa i gid i la ng u gid i va bat qua n tra i gidi . Die u dang lu u y ca ha i loa i gid i nay d6 u c d ha i diSu lie n quan true tie p den am thu c d d la : - Khon g sat sin h - (khon g an thit) - Khon g udn g ruo u C o m chay cua nhun g ngud i theo dao Phat 100% l a thuc vat gd m cac loa i cay, cu , qua, la , hoa... Co m chay hie n nay duo c che bie n rat da dang, c d hin h thu c gidn g cac md n an ma n cua 38 ngud i ddi : cun g c d cac md n gidn g nh u thit ga, torn, ca, cua, cha... Ch i cd die u nguyen lie u de l am nen nhun g th h d d toan b d la thuc vat. * * Mon torn ran Ngud i ta c d khud n due thanh Mn h con torn, c d ddt, rau ma t day d u nh u torn that. Nguye n lie u gd m bdt gao nep, dau, lac, vhng... va do gia v i kha c cun g toan la thuc vat nh u hanh tdi , dt, h d tieu , rau thorn... Nhun g con torn tren duoc ran k y thanh md n an vita gidn , vira deo, cd v i thorn ngo n rat la mien g khon g gidn g huong v i torn that d em ran. Ta t ca do nghe thuat tao hinh , tai nang che bien cua cac dau bep nha chua. * Mon cd ldc kho M d n nay la m bang ndn khoa i ngha, nhd i tron g rud t la bdt lac vhng , dau, cung cac th h ph u gi a khac . Sau kh i thanh hin h ca lac ngud i ta dem ran k y vd i dau thuc vat, sau ciin g dem kh o k y vd i tuon g hoac x i dau. an c d v i bui , ngay, ngot dam da, c d huon g thorn quye n ru . 39 * Mon ga quay Thoa t nhi n khac h duo c md i an la m tuon g duoc cac nha su thie t da i bu a thi t ga qua y ra tr d b d i nhi n tren ma m co m tha y co n ga duo c quay van g rdm , da bon g nhay, c d d u mao , dui , than, canh... rat sin h ddn g hap din . Ch i kh i nao dun g dia , thi a vao co n ga ay de la y thn g mien g ra an khac h md i bie t d d khon g pha i l a thi t ga m a toan la thhc an chay la m ban g bap chudi , qua chud i ludc , dau phu , lac vhng , man g mie n v a nhie u phu gi a khac . Cd ca nhun g dan mi a la m nh u xuon g ga rat khe o leo, ngud i an cun g pha i ro c la y thit, nha i xuong , nha ba nh u kie u an thi t ga qua y that. C h i c d die u khac h duoc di p thudn g thh c nhun g huon g v i md i la tdn g ho p - beo, bui , ngay, ngot ngo n va thorn thao rat dac biet. C o m chay d Nin h Bin h md i tha y c d tron g pham v i nha chua, nha thd . Dd i khi , pha i nhap c o m chay cao cap t h nude ngoa i nh u Da i Loan , H a n Qudc , Tha i Lan . Tron g d d c d cac v i l a thudc bac chua benh va b o dudng . Nin h Bin h cun g chua c d nhun g cua han g chuye n phuc v u co m chay cho nh u cau cua ca nhun g ngud i ngoa i dao 40 n h u mo t so thanh pho ld n da la m (Ha Noi , Hue , Sai Gdn...) X u hudn g thic h an com chay cang tang. Dd i sdng phat trien , thuc pham ddn g vat da kha dd i dao nhat la d thanh phd. Can an com chay la mo t n h u cau thuc te cua nhii u ngud i nham thudn g thuc van hoa, nghe thuat an udng da danh va it ra cun g cd the lam cham qua trin h beo phi. A n udn g di to n ta i va phat trie n la nh u cau tat yeu ciia con ngudi. "Cd thuc md i vuc duoc dao" . On g cha ta t h xa xua biet r d di6u dd. Tron g thuc te ta thay ai hoat ddn g nhi6u , lao ddng khoe cun g an khoe . Ca i su an ciia md i vun g mien , md i dan tdc, t o n giao, md i gia i doan, hoan canh co nhun g diem it nhie u khac nhau. Nga y tron g mot gia din h phon g each kha u v i ciia md i ngud i cung khac nhau. Md i ngud i deu c d sd thich , kha u v i rieng . Giu a ho c d khon g it nhun g diem chung cun g phon g each am thuc nhun g cung cd v d sd nhun g dac diem rien g mud n mau , mud n ve. Do vay d day td i ch i xi n duoc neu va i net mo t so khi a canh ve van hoa am thuc cua ngud i Nin h Bin h de ban doc tham khao. 41 T o m lai , cun g nh u nhie u di a phuon g khac , ngud i dan Nin h Bin h da tra i qua nhie u trie u da i ha khac , nhie u cudc chie n tran h da i dan g ac liet, them nua la tin h mie n duye n ha i thudn g ganh chi u nhie u la n l u bao, nan g ha n ne n vie c san xua t gap nhie u kh d khan , vat va , kin h te' phat trie n cham, dd i sdng sin h hoa t thie u thdn , ngheo nan. Ca i an, ca i ma c pha i tan tie n vd i phuon g cham "an lay chac, ma c la y ben" , i t a i da m ngh i t d i "an ngo n mac dep" . V i vay, nhun g md n an dan da, re tie n hoac de ha i luo m tron g t u nhien va che' bie n do n gia n thudn g chie m u u the ho n tron g bua an cua ngud i dan ma kh i ay ch u ye u la ndn g dan. M a y chuc nam gan day, tin h hin h am thuc da kha c xu a nhieu , do cac ma t kin h te - x a hd i on din h va phat trie n nhan h chong , nha t l a luon g thuc , thuc pham kh a dd i dao. Tron g cac nha hang, ngud i ta b d ruou , udn g bia . Dun g "mam cao c d day " toan d d "xin " A , Au : nao gid , nem, ninh , moc , trun g trang , chi m quay... nhun g ro i nhun g md n la , chat luon g cao an nhie u rd i cung ngan, ngud i ta la i qua y ve vd i nhun g md n dan da ap day huon g ddn g gi d ndi , tat nhie n d trin h do cao ho n ve phuon g pha p che' bie'n va phon g each am thuc . 42 Ngoa i cho, nhhn g th h ma y chuc nam vang bon g nay la i tr d ve\ Ngud i ta ban ca rau ma , rau tap tang, rau lang , rau dau, hoa chudi, ca dqn g dat ho n ca bien , ca nuoi , ga ri , ga rhn g dat ho n ga con g nghiep. Tron g nha hang, khac h san, torn, cua, ca kh o nie u dat, 6c e'ch tr o thanh dac san... V a y l a x u hudn g ti m ve co i nguon, quay tr o l a i v6 i cac mo n an dan toe, dan da dang hien huu . Nin h Bin h co ban la mo t tin h dong bang mi6 n duye n ha i phi a Bac nen co phon g each am thuc rieng , phat trie n tren nen van hoa do. Thhc an dan da cua ho gan vd i ngud n thu y hai san dd i dao kha i thac duoc ta i chd. D a phan nhun g thuc an quen thudc xua nay tr d thanh dac san nh u torn, cua, dc nhd i va ca ddn g chiem ty le cao tron g bua an. Bua co m cua ngud i Nin h Bin h kha gia n dj , thudn g ch i c d mo t md n man (mam mudi ) va mo t md n nhat canh hay xao, ludc , nau; trudc kh i an c d chao md i lan nhau, ch u yeu la ngud i dud i md i ngud i tren, ngud i it tuo i md i va nhudn g nhi n ngud i cao tuo i va tre nhd . Nh a ddn g ngud i thudn g cun g ngd i an bang mam chong tre hay tra i chie u xud'ng nen nha. Cd ngud i ngd i dau 43 n o i de xd i co m cho mo i ngudi . V i tr i na y thudn g do ngud i ph u n u tron g nha nh u cac ba me , con dau hay co n ga i cua gi a din h dam nhiem . H o thudn g ban ron , tat bat, vat va tham ch i chi u nhie u thie t thd i tron g bua an. Nhun g d o nep nha, ngud i ph u n u c h thay la trach nhiem, l a l e phai, nen rat vu i ve, t u nguye n la m nhie m v u ma khon g he suy bi , so ho n tin h thiet. C o n d din h dam, ngud i ph u n u thudn g nhudn g budc cho cac dang ma y rau. Ne u bud c pha i d i th i ho t u ti m cho min h no i thic h hop, thudn g l a cung gidi , bang va i pha i lha , ngang tam v i tr i x a hdi , ho tdc... va tuan th u nguye n tac "a n du a xud'ng, udn g dua len " va an tron g ndi , ngd i tron g hudn g m d i la ngud i hie u biet. Cd dieu , tu y khon g pha i la net va n hoa nhun g cung tha'y kh a ph d bie n d Nin h Bin h trud c day, nhat la so ngud i cao tuoi , thudn g an co m xon g r d i van ngam ca i tam tron g mieng , c d kh i d i kha p xd m lan g ma va n c h ngam ca i tam. Co ngud i l y gia i ran g de de t h chd i an udn g kh i duoc moi . Cun g c d ngud i la i cho rang, day l a gi u si dien rang ta van c d co m an, ch h khon g pha i hang "ngheo, hen " da u nhe. Thu c h u chua rd , nhun g hie n nay khon g co n trudn g ho p nao nh u the". N e u l a ngud i mie n Bac, nhat l a vun g duye n 44 hai, tha'y phon g each nh u tren cua ngud i Nin h Bin h khon g co g i doc dao. D o la dieu tat yeu, bd i ho cun g cd cun g nin van hoa, rat gan nhau ve phong each am thuc , su khac nhau it thd i la die u dd hieu . Nhun g neu d i sau vao nhung mo n an hop kha u v i cu the cua ngud i Nin h Bin h va so vd i am thuc mie n Trung , mie n Nam , ho se thay r d Nin h Bin h qua cd nhun g ddc dao rieng, it nhie u gidn g Na m Dinh , H a Nd i nhung khon g gidn g hoan toan, c d nhun g diem, nhung net gidn g vd i Bac Trun g Bo (Than h Hoa , Ngh e An) . Die u nay cang lam tang them nhun g net dep phong phu, da dang nhun g van gi u duoc dam da ban sac ciia di a phuong Nin h Binh . Cun g can nd i them: D u lic h va van hoa am thuc cd nhie u duyen no vd i nhau. Cai nay to n vin h va lam dep cho cai ki a va nguoc lai . Mo t vun g d u lic h l y tuong khon g ch i co canh quan, m o i trudn g hap dan ma con la no i cd van hoa am thuc phong phu day an tuong. 45 Nin h Bin h chin h l a no i co day ti£ m nang ve phuon g die n nay, tu y nhie n va n hoa am thuc chua duoc kha i thac het. H y von g "do i uyen uong " nay se duoc gan bo ho n nua de d u lic h Nin h Bin h ngay cang hap dan d u khac h mud i phuong . 46 Pha n I I D A C SA N A M THl/ C • • NIN H BIN H O C NHO I GI A Vlfe N Khoang chuc nam tro lai day, trong cac mon an duoc go i la dac san cua nha hang, khac h san a Nin h Bin h la mo n 6c nhd i duoc che bien thanh nhieu mo n nh u 6c ludc, 6c xao, 6c nau... 6 c nho i co 6 nhie u noi , si n nha t l a d vung don g chiem trun g thuoc di a pha n huye n Gia Vie n (tin h Nin h Binh). 6 day co nhie u dam ao, song ngoi , don g chiem trun g quan h na m ng£ p nude, nhie u loa i cay cd , ron g re u dud i nude la m d i trudn g td't cho d'c nhd i c u tru , sin h sdi nay n d . 6 c nhd i d day xu a nay so vd i no i kha c khong c h i nhie u ve so luon g ma chat luon g cun g thorn ngo n ho n han. D o vay cac khac h san, nha hang thudn g le n tan no i mu a ve la m md n dac san. V i sdng d md i trudn g nude sach ne n v d 6c nhi n bong , than trd n day, kh i cam tha y chac tay, chhn g t d d'c dang beo, rud t chha da y tron g vo. Kic h c d d'c nhd i d day thudn g ban g qua trun g ga, trhn g vit . Da y cun g chin h l a tie u chua n chin h de cho n d'c nhd i c d chat luon g cao. Xu a ki a si n d'c ngud i ta don g ban ban g thung , r o xe hoac ban le bang md , bay gi d kha n hie m ngud i ta ban 6c bang can hoac dem co n (tram, chuc. ) Ngud i .sanh 6'c nhd i khon g bao gi d nha m vd i d'c buou 48 van g (c o v o vang , mi6n g mong , loe). Ngud i ta nhi n qua da bie t 6c nho i cua vun g nao, con song hay chet, beo hay gay. The o kin h nghiem xem thd i tie t cua on g cha ta "6c ho i ri a ao, cd mu a rao l a tanh" . Dan g mu a thay dc nhd i no i le n quanh b d ao l a sap het mua . Kh i dc noi , ngud i ta dun g vo t hoac ro de xi u lay. Ne u dc b d ng£hn dud i nude ngud i ta m d bat bang tay. Cho n duoc 6c nhd i ngo n theo tie u chuan rd i nhun g can pha i c d k y thuat che bie n de hop kha u v i . Rien g vun g Gi a Vnl n (Nin h Binh ) van thudn g dun g cac md n chin h la dc ludc , d'c xao va d'c nau. Trud c kh i dua vao che bie'n thanh cac md n an, ngud i ta thudn g ngam d'c vao nude gao mo t ngay hoac pha t i dt, de va i gi d d'c se tha i bdt nhdt, cau ban, can ba. Sau d d rua d'c that sach, chat bd phan dud i nho n d i rd i dem ludc (hoac ha'p). M d n d'c ludc (ha'p cang td't) ngud i ta c d the them la chanh, la giin g de kh u mu i tanh. 6 c ludc k y , an ndng , thudn g dun g di a hoac tam nhon , c l n c d bat nude cha'm that day mu i c d d u gi a v i nhu : nude mam , ghng, dudng , chanh, dt, tdi.. . M d n d'c lud c dem la i cho ngud i an cam giac md i la , vua ma t me m no i mat ludi , vua cung gid n nghe ru n ru t no i chan rang, vua chua chua, ngo n ngot, cay cay ram ran ca vd m mieng . 4-VHAT 49 M o n 6c xao: ne u rud t 6c to qua ngud i ta thai n h o thn g mien g vua phai, ro i trd n k y vd i cac gia v i nh u rieng , me , ma m torn , nud e main , khe, gung... de khoan g 15-2 0 phu t rd i ph i han h mo xao dc, c d the them i t ra u qua la m ph u gia . Rau mudn g c d v i chat nen d ndn g thd n thudn g xao, nau vd i dc rat d i an. M d n dc nau: md n na y thudn g c d pha n ph u gia l a rau, c u qua. Thic h ho p nha t l a dc nhd i nau vdi c u chudi , cay chudi , hoa chud i tha i nh d thanh soi hoac nau vd i qua chud i xan h tha i la t day. Oc na'u cun g can c d gi a v i gan gidn g md n xao. Nud e do vua pha i na'u that nhu , sao ch o bat na u d'c cd cai va nude sanh dac khon g den h doang . Trud c kh i tat lua , b d them la lot , mu i ta u tha i nh d dao deu, n d i 6c se day mu i ha'p dan. Trudc day d'c nhd i l a md n an dan da thudng xuye n v i re tien , d i kie m d vun g que ngheo, lam l u . Va y nen d vun g nay c d thin h han h cau ca nhu m o t ld i khuye n ha m chha nhie u y v i cua nhhng ngud i ndn g dan gia u kin h nghiem : "Mud n an cua rd'c, d'c nhdi , de m co n m a ga ch o ngud i ddng chiem" . Khon g ng d vie c "a n cua rd'c, d'c nhoi " khon g can pha i ve vd i ddn g chie m xa xd i nha ma ngay giua chd n th i than h "cua rd'c, d'c nhdi" , "nghiim nhie n da le n ngd i "dac san", duoc nhieu d u khac h ua dung . 50 C A R O TON G TRUIN G Tong Trudng nay la xa Trudng Ye n da't Cd dd Hoa L u c d den Din h Le , trudc ki a thudc huyen G i a Vien : vun g ddng chiem trung, hang nam chi cay duoc mo t v u lua chiem. Gat ha i xong, nude ca khon g cat duoc ra. Ld p lua non t h gdc ra ngoi len cho hat go i la lua da i hay con goi la lua chet. Ca rd d day san cai an quanh nam nen to con va beo vang c h u khon g nh u loa i ca r d no i khac than dai, lep, co mau den xam hoac xanh xao, nhd con. Ca rd Tong Trudn g cung nh u d nhieu no i khac beo len vao thang hai - ba; thang tam nude ca denh doang, da sd mat mua nen ca r d cung gl y gudc. Cd le v i vay ma tdn tai cau tuc ngu: Cd rd thdng tdm chang giam bao ai Cd rd thdng hai bao ai thi bao Ca r d Ton g Trudn g c d thit ran, vang, thorn ngo n dac biet. Ngud i ta c d the che bie n thanh nhi£ u md n an nhu : rang, ran, nau canh hoac kh o khd.. . Ne u udn g ruou , ngud i ta thic h dun g md n rang hoac ran gidn , co n an co m thudn g dun g m d n canh va kho . 51 M o n r o ran g khon g to n ma , co n nguye n chat ca ro . Kh i duoc o m k y ban g ngo n lua , than ram hoac cu i lor n dom . Thi t ca r o chi n ma t di n nude, ca xuong , thi t ca tr o ne n gio n bui , nga y va thorn phhe. Ngud i ta thudn g cho n loa i ca r d ron , dung nie u dat ran g tha t chay canh , co n ndn g hoi, cham vd i nude ma m gun g hoac d t ch o t i chanh chua th i tha t l a th u vi . M d n r d ra n cun g can ra n k y cha y canh , an luc c o n ndn g md i cam nha n duo c dl y d u ca i gion, bui , ngay thor n lun g cua ca rd . Can h ca r d cung khon g ke m phan ha'p dan. Ngud i ta lud c ca, g6 xuon g gi a (nghien ) lo c la y nude ngo t na'u canh. Thi t ca r d xao le n cun g cac gi a vi , td i thie u phai c d ghn g gi a nhd , nude ma m ngon , na u cun g rau cai xan h l a thic h ho p nhat. Md n can h ca r d na'u r a u ca i c d v i ngot, thor n rat rieng . So vd i loai canh ca khac , na u canh ca r d ma t nhie u th i gift va cau k y hon , bd i "ngo n to n cua , khe o ton cong " Ngoa i md n canh, ca r d co n duo c kh o khd , la m d n an rat que n thud c vd i nhie u ngud i d ndng thdn . Kh i xu a kh o ca nd i chung , kh o ca r d noi rien g ngud i ta pha i t u che' la y ke o dan g l a thu 52 dudn g mi a duoc chung , co dac co miu nau mat; k h i kh o vd i ca c d tac dung, tay het mu i tanh va nhud m ca c d ma u dam da ua nhin ; kh i an cd v i ngot, bu i di u em. Ngud i ta kh o ca r d vd i nude m a m x i dau hoac vd i tuong , khon g quen tha i vao d d va i la t ghn g cho ca kh o them huon g sdc. TrUn g ca r d bu i ngay, thorn ngo n ho n bat k y loa i trun g ca nao. Khon g ch i thorn ngon, ca r d kh o c o n rat lan h c d the dun g nhii u bua cho phu n u tha i nghen, sin h n d hoac ngud i gi a dau dm. Cd le t h thuc te ngo n lanh , b6 dudn g dac biet cua ca r d nd i chung , ca r d Ton g Trudn g nd i rien g ma tron g dan gia n vun g C d d d Ho a L u (Nin h Binh ) da t h la u lu u truye n cau ca; Di thi nhd" cau ciing cd Ve thi nhd mdi cd rd Tong Trudng. 53 T A I D E C O D O Co do Ho a L u nam tren dat Trudn g Ye n huyen Ho a Lu , tin h Nin h Binh , each H a No i ho n chin chuc cay so. No i day co nhie u nu i da vo i ph u xanh cay co i tao nen buc tudn g thanh t u nhie n vun g chai n h u bao boc, bao ve cho kin h d d Ho a L u xua va den Din h - Le , mo t d i tic h lic h su quan tron g cua qudc gia. Cun g ta i no i day, t h la u da c d mo t md n an dac san no i tien g ma thie n nhie n da ba n tang cho nhan dan tron g vun g va d u khac h thap phuong, d d la md n ta i de (Son Duong ) Trudn g Yen. Nhie u no i kha c cun g c d md n an nay, nhun g mon t a i d vun g C d d d Ho a L u c d huon g v i rieng. Khon g ch i v i n d l a dac-san cua vun g C d d d ma nd hap dan, ngo n lan h bd i c d nhie u dac diem h i m d i trudn g sin h trudn g va each la m thi t de, che bie n md n an, gi a vi . K h i thudn g thhc thi t de Trudn g Yen , nhung ngud i sanh die u c d chun g mo t nha n xet: thit de o day vu a thorn , ngo n ngo t vua ma t lan h hon nhie u vun g kha c va l y gia i rang : loa i de no i day an toan la cay, c d mo c hoan g da tre n nu i da v6i 54 cao, lon g lon g nang gid , kh i trdi . Tron g so do la i co nhie u cay thuoc bo ma t co gi a tri va rat qu y hiem, den co n ngud i cung chua bie t het duoc. The m nua, de nu i a day thudn g pha i d i chuyen nhieu , kie m an tren cac sudn nu i cheo leo cd nhie u mo m da "ta i meo " nho n sac, dd i hd i than hin h pha i tho n tha khoe man h uye n chuyen, vd i bd'n ch i that sam sdn vira deo da i vira ran chac, lin h hoat, thic h ngh i vd i viec nhay nhdt leo treo chua n xac. Duo c an thit loa i de nay se c d ic h rat nhii u cho she kho e so vd i an thit de sdng o vun g d d i thap hoac ddn g bang, hay chan ddt, nud i dudn g ta i gia . Cun g tuon g t u nh u hie n nay thit ga rhng , ga r i c d gi a ho n nhie u so vd i thit ga cong nghie p duoc nud i dudn g tron g chudn g trai. Thj t de ngo n lan h con do ngud i ta biet each l am va che bie n cac md n an. O md i di a phuong c d each lam, each che bien thit de khac nhau. Rien g d Trudn g Ye n k y thuat nay kha ddc dao: de bdt duoc ho i ho i trudc kh i cdt tie't, ngud i ta thudn g danh cho de lan ldc , la het de cac tuye n m d hdi , ho i ho i thoat bdt ra ngoa i theo cac I d chan lon g va ho i th d cua de. Sau d d ngud i ta chdt lay tie't. Mud n c d md n tie't canh de ngo n 55 lan h ngud i ta ti m cat dun g ti a hon g gi n gidn g n h u la y tie't thi t chd . Kh i da la y tie't xon g td't nha't l a thu i de ngay bang ra m co n mdi , kh d va thorn. D e bdt ho i va thorn thit . Ca n nhe t l a o i hoac la t h b i vao bun g de trudc kh i thui , bao gi d thay da de vang rd m l a duoc . Thi t de c d the che bie n thanh cac md n an: - Mon tie't canh de: Md n nay c d than h phan tdn g ho p ch u ye u l a tie't de va phan ph u bam nho n h u thit, bi , long , sun... va cac gi a v i kha c nhu vhn g rang, hat tieu , lac, ra u tham.. . Cd no i ngud i ta udn g lud n tie't de tuo i ban g each hun g tie't chay vao gao dua rd i truye n tay nha u udn g kh i tie't co n dang ndn g hdi . Udn g tie't de kie u nay ngud i ta cho rin g vua ve sinh , vh a hudn g tron ven chat tuo i nguyen , bu i ngot, ma t lan h cua tie't de va cun g l a mo t th u vu i am thuc c d tin h cong ddng . - Tdi de: l a md n dac san no i tien g nhl t khon g c h i d vun g Trudn g Ye n Ho a L u co n cua ca vung Nin h Bin h tron g d d c d kh u d u lic h Tam Cdc - Bic h Ddn g dugc co i l a "Na m thie n de nh i ddng" . T a i de c d ba loa i chinh . Ta i nhun g l a thi t de thai mon g nhun g vao nude dan g sdi. Ta i la n l a thi t de 56 tha i mon g duoc ap qua chao non g va tai vhn g thit de ta i tha i mon g bop k y vd i vhn g hoac lac rang tan nho cun g cac gi a v i khac. A n kem vd i ta i de nhat thie t pha i co mo n tuon g Ban (lang Ban Hun g Yen ) md i xung , co the kem theo mo t so gi a v i kha c nh u rau thorn, dt, toi , gung tu y theo "khoa i khau " thn g ngudi . Mien g tai de thuon g duoc go i tron g la sung hoac banh da trang mon g cho tie n nh u cac nha hang thudn g l am hien nay. Cach an th u v i ho n ca la diin g tay ket hop vd i dua de nhd n nhat, go i ghem cham chap nha i cham ngo n lanh. Ta i de la mot md n an c d huon g v i phon g ph u hap dan bd i n d thorn ngon , chua ngot, chat bui , tuo i mat, nhe nhang t h u vi . Ta't ca quye n thanh mo t huon g v i rien g khon g gidn g bat k y md n an (tai) nao khac - ta i de la md n an o n hoa khon g ndn g nh u thit chd. A n duoc ca t h mua , dun g tron g \t tet, gi d chap, cud i xi n cun g duoc khon g pha i kien g k y nh u thj t chd, thit trlu , thit vit.. . N d la mo t san pham cua n u i rhng , c d cay thie n nhien , la md n an dam da huon g v i dan gian . Ngoa i md n ta i de, thit de con che bien duoc nhieu md n kha c cun g rat ngo n lanh thu v i nh u de 57 nudng , de hap, la u de, sot vang , de ham.. . Ngud i ta dun g xuon g de na u cao de, an b o ga n cot - cao de co n co ten l a "bac h thao cao " v i de an hang tram th h la cay co tren nui . Ngud i ta co n dung bao tha i de hoac da i de de ngam ruo u udng , co tac dun g kha c nha u nhun g de u l a bd i b o she khoe . Chun g quan h cac md n an udn g t h co n de con nhie u die u th u v i nua md i di a phuon g c d nhung c h i tie't, tin h tie't ve che bien , su dung , thudng thhc kha c nhau. Rien g d vun g Trudn g Ye n Hoa L u - Nin h Bin h c d d i tic h lic h su vu a l a no i danh thang no i tieng , nhie u d u khac h ve day thudng thudn g thhc dac san ta i de, d u ch i mo t ll n cung d u de la i an tuon g td't dep kh d quen. Cha the ma d day da truye n mien g cau ca dao khon g r d tit bao gid : Tdi de chdm vdi tuong gung, An vdo mdi thay bung bung mau de. Ngudi oi, ngudi d dung ve Chieu nay ta lai tdi de tuong gung! 58 Rl/O U KI M SO N ira m a nut chai ra la ta da cam nhan dugc ngay V cai dac biet ha'p dan cua huong nep m6 i nggt ngao, lan toa khap phong. Canh mu i b6ng nh u m o rong, phap phong de tan huong huong tham n6ng nan, di u mat va dAy quyen r u cua huang dong gio noi. Cung chung vui , ta nang chen len, rugi lung linh , trong treo ke sat mo i mem, bon muo i do ma c h d i u em tham thao. Cai v i cay cay, te te no i dau lud i r o i ram ran ca vo m mien g lam lan toa, thoang thong ca lan da khien ta co cam giac lang lang, ngat ngay va bay bong. Tu u lugng da kha, tuy say sua nhung dau khon g b i dau nhhc, choang vang. Chat men thorn c h quan quyt, nong nan lo i keo va biet bao khoa i cam. Tat ca nhung huong vi , nhung cam nhan dugc nh u vay deu do nhieu ngudi da dugc chiem nghiem thuong thhc da no i rang chi tha'y bieu hien ro nhat d rug u Ki m Son - mot huyen mien bien phia ddng nam cua tin h Nin h Binh . Nhie u ngud i sanh rug u con cho rang rug u d day ngo n no i tien g chang ke m g i rug u Lan g Va n (Bac Ninh ) va nhie u no i khac . Rug u Ki m Son c d nhhn g sac tha i va huon g v i rat rien g cua mo t vun g - no i dat va nude ap bien bao la nhun g 59 khon g b i xd i 16 bao mon , tra i la i nga y de m luo n luo n duoc v d ve, bo i lan g bd i ph u sa m d ma u tuo i ma t cua cua song Da y ma t ruoi , khie n cay tra i xu m xue tuo i td't c d kic h c d ld n hon , day dan h o n nhie u di a phuon g khac . Nhun g ddn g co i d day xan h bat ngat den ta n bie n trdi . Lu a nude la loa i cay tron g duoc hudn g true tie p nhat, nhie u nhat ca i m o mau , tuo i ma t d o thie n nhie n ban tang. Va y nen hat gao d da y c h dl y dan, dng chud't, thorn lhng , rat thic h ho p vd i ngud n nude ngam tron g vdt dd i dao, gd p pha n tao ne n chen ruou , bat co m thorn ngo n den l a lun g cua da't K i m Son. Nhun g de ruo u ngo n dac bie t vd i huon g v i ddc dao khon g ch i ph u thud c die u kie n t u nhien ma quan tron g ho n can c d nhun g ch u nha n lam ra chin h nd . Cun g nh u cay trai , ngud i Ki m Son c d she vdc ho n ngudi , c d nhie u chan g tra i cudng trang , va m vd , nguc n d g d le n nh u tan g da, dam duon g dau vd i bao t o bie n khoi . Nhun g c d gai Phat Die m (th i tran Ki m Son) la i c d la n da trdng ngan, mi n mang , dac bie t dd i md t huye n hao hao m d t Dh c Me , tham sau m o man g hu t hd n vien khach . Tron g so ho c d nhun g ngud i d i ba n ruo u ron g khd p noi . Tien g md i chao cua h o cun g ndn g 60 dug m ngot ngao nh u ruou , ngan nga nh u chudng va chang hie u t h bao gi d no i day ngud i ta hay doc la i cau ca thoang nghe nh u ld i the "thu y chun g vdi.. . ruou . Con trdi con nude con non Con co ban rugu anh cdn say sua! V d n chat phac, can mi n va kheo tay la i c d be day kin h nghiem truyi n thdn g nghe nghiep, ca vun g Ki m Son t h xu a da bie t nau ruou , nud i Io n de thoa t ngheo. D a c d md t thd i luon g thuc thie u thdn , nghe na'u ruo u b i cam doan, nan che'de tap trun g gao cho nhun g con g viec quan tron g hon . Khoan g ho n chuc nam tr d la i day, ngh i na'u ruou , nud i Io n d day duoc phat trie n kha sam uat b d i ngud n luon g thuc da dd i dao, Nh a nude la i c d chin h sach khuye n khic h chuye n dic h c o cau kin h te giu a chan nudi , tron g trot va dic h vu . Chan nudi , nau ruo u xua t ra ngoa i huye n d Ki m Son tr d nen md t nghe hap dan th u hut hang tram h d dan, hang ngan lao ddng . Nhi n chun g ruo u K i m Son c d gi a nhat vun g khoan g lO.OOOd/lit. Tie u bie'u nhat, dac sdc va no i tien g nhat van la ruo u cua La i Than h - md t x a cue nam cua huye n K i m Son. 61 Tie p gia p vd i day nii i Die n H o (Ng a Son - Than h Hoa ) d day co nhie u gi a din h han h nghe nau ruo u lie n tuc han g chu c nam. Qu a nam, sau the he h o bie t r 5 va thuc hie n rat dun g qu y trinh , k y thua t chun g cat ruou . H o sanh die u tron g con g vie c cho n lu a sir dun g chat gao, nguo n nude va loa i me n vo i nhun g b i quye't co tin h gia truyen , tao r a duoc nhun g me ruo u co chat luon g cao nh u y . Ngoa i ra vat dun g cun g gd p phan khon g nho de chat ruo u khon g b i nhie m sat, nhie m phen, nhil m ma n ve sinh nghie m ngat, bao dam do tin h khie't cua ruou . 9, O Nin h Bin h ha u nh u xa , phudng , th i tran nao cun g co ngud i na'u ruo u la m dic h vu , nhun g kh i co con g to vie c ld n qua n tron g va khac h sanh die u th i ha u het c h pha i kie'm ban g duoc ruou K i m Son chin h han g md i toa i nguyen . Cd nhieu ngud i mu a ruo u d u tr u san tron g can de de phong luc nh o nhang . Nga y vie c nga m ruo u thudc ngud i ta thudn g ke n ruo u Ki m Son md i ye n tam. Ruo u Ki m Son khon g ch i duo c nha n dan ca tin h t i n nhie m m a v i tr i cua n d co n duoc khan g din h d d i vd i ca vun g ddn g ban g Bac B d va vun g duye n hai. Xu a nay ruo u Ki m Son co n theo 62 ngud i d i kha p dat nude. T u Ha Ndi , thanh ph d H d Ch i Min h den Vien g Chan, Bac Kinh , Td-ki - d, Mat-xco-va , Pa-ri, Oasinh-ton... deu cd mat ruo u Ki m Son. Nhie u d u khac h mua ve" lam qua tang nhau th h ruo u trang tron g sudt, ho i lac da sui nhie u tam thudn g duoc dan ban di a dung tron g cha i nut la chud i kh d - d d la ruo u Ki m Son. Cd the nd i ruo u Ki m Son da gdp phan lam ha'p dan them man h dat no i tien g la no i san sinh ra cac md n gd i torn, gd i ca nhech, cua be ludc , cha ruoi , torn su... V a den luo t min h nhun g dac san tren la i la ngud i ban than can ddn g hanh va cung ton vin h ruo u Ki m Son. 63 C O M CHA Y HUON G MA I Cam chay co d Nin h Bin h t h bao gid-, chua ai biet duoc chin h xac. Co mo t so c u cao tuo i lam nghe com pha d th i xa lau nam ke rang ngud n gdc m d n com chay do ngud i Ta u (Trun g Qudc ) sang l am thue va truyen lai. Han g ca m ph d dau tien thudng c d co m chay l a quan co m ph d Huon g Ma i d gan nga ba cho Dd n th i xa Nin h Binh . Ngud i ta thay xua t hie n md n co m cha y d day da kh a lau . Khoan g chuc na m gi n da y md n com chay la i c d nhie u khac h ua dun g ho n trud c nen hie n nay qua n co m ph d c d ma u ma t nao d th i xa Nin h Bin h cun g c d ban co m chay. Tu y nhien , co quan khac h hang den an co m cha y ra't dong, cun g c d nhie u quan van g khach . Nguye n nhan c h u ye u dan den su kha c nha u tre n da y l a do chat luon g cua md n co m chay d cac qua n kha c nhau. Mud n c d co m chay chat luong , dun g tie u chuan cun g khon g pha i de. Trud c het ch u han g phai quan ta m nhie u den qu y trin h v a k y thua t kha nghie m ngat de tao ra co m chay. T h h nha t ngud i ta quan ta m den vie c chon gao: thudn g l a gao nep hoac te thor n deo, c d the 64 pha t y le thic h hg p giua gao nep va tam thorn. K h i nau co m do vua nu6c , vha lha nh u bin h thudng , co m chi n nh u khon g kho , khon g nat se co co m chay ngon . D e tao ra com chay (xem) ngud i ta thudn g dun g nd i gang day (v i gi u nhie t td't). Kh i co m chi n ngud i ta lay ra, phan com din h day nd i duoc tiep tuc cap nhiet. Nd i duoc xoa y trd n cho ndn g diu , tao thanh ld p com chay mong , trang deu. Thd i gian tao xem khoang va i chuc phut la vua . Ne u de gi a lua va thd i gian, ld p c o m chay se b i qua day; nga mau vang ma t ngon . Kh i xoay ndi , ld p xem t u bong ra khd i thanh ndi , ngud i ta lay ra pho i hoac say cho that k h d rd i dem dun g ngay hoac boc ki n tron g tii i n i lon g bao quan dun g dan. Cd mo t sd quan chuyen san xua t san co m chay nguye n lie u de ban la i cho cac quan com chay khac do ho khon g cd dii u kie n lam ra. Quan Huon g Ma i la i tao com chay bang ngam tam gao, b d tron g khay cho vao Id say tao ra co m chay theo each rien g gi a truyen . K h i khac h c d nh u cau, nha hang luc ay md i cho nhun g mien g co m chay vao bat rd i chan m d n sup vao cho khac h an. Cun g c d quan cho 5-VHAT 65 vao chao dau sdi de chirn g len . NhGn g mien g c o m chay duoc ngam da u va nhie t d o cao se n o ra, the tic h ld n le n nhan h chon g va mien g chay se no i len. Lu c ay co m cha y co n non g ho i ngud i ta pha i vd t ngay ra bo vao bat ch o khach . Don g thd i ngud i phuc v u pha i c d nga y md n sup (thudn g ban g tim , gan, cat Io n cun g ndn g hoi) cha n vao bat co m cha y sdi le n seo seo, khd i trang ngu n ngu t bdc le n toa huon g thor n ngao ngat. Cun g l a lu c co m cha y mi m ra, gio n tan. V d i nhGng am thanh , ma u sic , huon g v i nh u tren ngud i an cam thay khoa i kha u va an tuong . Rien g md n sup cun g cl n c d k y thua t cao, lieu luon g vGa phai. Can c d i t bd t sdn de tao su sanh dac cho nude sup ba m chat va tham sau ho n vao nhun g mien g co m chay. Ngoa i ra co n c d cac gia v i nh u hanh mo , ghn g dt... va nhGng thG an kem theo sd thic h cua khac h han g nh u ra u thorn , rau sdng. Die u dan g lu u y l a la m md n co m chay can c d day d u ngud i phu c v u vd i nhGng thao tac nhan h nhe n ki p thd i md i dam bao duoc tieu chua n ndn g sot cua md n an nay. Ne u con g viec nay la m cham tr i th i a m thanh , huon g vi , chat luon g md n co m cha y se gia m sut, se b i khach 66 hang sanh an ca m chay che ba i rat nhieu. Nh a hang Huan g Ma i (th i xa Nin h Binh ) ngay don g khac h td i 30 0 ngud i dun g co m chay, lud n lud n c d td i 18 ngud i phuc vu . M d n co m chay nha hang Huon g Mai , th i xa Nin h Bin h t h la u da rat no i tieng . Cd nhie u khac h d H a Ndi , Ha i Phong, cac tin h phi a Bac va mie n Trung . Da c bie t la nhie u ngud i t h tin h phi a Nam , tron g d d c d thanh ph d H d Ch i Min h kh i d i qua th i x a Nin h Bin h da khon g quen thudn g thhc m d n ca m ddc dao nay. 67 M O N HE N Cach day den ma'y chuc nam, td i co n nh d ma i co lan dugc an mo n cha hen va chao hen ban 6 cac cua hang an tai th i xa Nin h Binh . D a dugc an mot lan, la i mud n dugc thuong thhc lan th h ha i ro i lan t h h ba va khon g quen r u ban cun g d i an. M d i gan day, to i co di p dug c gap la i cac mo n hen nay ta i pho Me , huye n Gi a Vien . Ga n gui c h u hang, to i mo i bie t the m v d mo n hen, san pham cua song nude , vUa re, vu a ngon , rat san 6 G i a Viln . Ngud i ta d i ri u he n 6 dud i sdng ngoi, dud i dam, thun g vun g quan h na m nga p nude. H e n c d the md , v o bat ban g tay hoa c dun g giam nan tre ciing , I d thua , mien g gia m phi a dud i co lud i sat mong , nang, ke o la y hen . Ngud i ta buoc day, tha gia m xud'ng day sdng rd i ch d thuyen keo gia m d i theo. He n nam la n tron g bu n se bi ddn g nude chay ngug c gat vao tron g giam, r6i ngud i ta vd t len , da i sach la y hen . Md i me duoc t h 2 den 3 can, tu y thud c vao ma t d d hen d noi d d . Vie c nay gidn g nh u ngud i ta dun g ca i ban tran g g d ke o lu a pho i d san gg n le n ddng . H e n d no i day khon g to co n la m nhun g rat 68 may, mu p di u co ma u trang bac, vo co ma u vang sang. Nhi n v o be ngoa i da thay ngo n mlt . Va o khoan g than g ha i den thang ba, kh i nude song xuon g can, cun g la mu a hen beo, de kha i thac. H a u het cac ch o tron g huye n va cho tin h l y Nin h Bin h deu co ban hen Gi a Vien . Ngud i ta thudn g dun g hen de la m md n cha hen, sao hen hoac na'u canh, na'u chao... Chd hen: Md n nay lam gidn g cha da: c d nhan g d m rud t he'n, thit nac, hanh tuoi , rau thorn, th i la, cun g bam nhd , tra vha ma m mud i rd i trd n deu v d i trun g ga hoac trUng vit , v d ngoa i cudn bang banh da nem, cud i cun g la ran ky , gion , an ndn g rat thorn ngon , ha'p din . Mon canh hen: Nga y xua , da so con dd i ngheo nen ngud i ta thudn g na'u canh hen bln g rau dau, rau bi , rau can... Na y c d the nau vd i nhie u loa i rau cu qua kha c nhau nh u ca chua, b l u bi , su hao... Canh hen cl n dun g ca nude hen md i ngot. N e u ch i c d rud t hen, rau, nude la na'u vd i nhau t h i chua pha i la canh hen. Nud e ludc hen sach due nh u nude gao, "I d I d nude hen" . Canh hen c d v i ngot, huon g thorn ra't dac trung . 69 Chao hen: Nga y xu a nh a nghe o thuon g pha i an chao hen. Co nha qua ngheo , hoac la m nghe b a n rud t hen (cho ngud i la m cha ) pha i de m het rud t he n ra ch o ba n la y tie n don g gao, co n la i nude lud c hen dem na u chao de ch o ca nha an tr u bua. Tha t buo n cudi , da n gia n la i co cau "Khd n an cai, da i an nude" . Tron g trudn g ho p nay (mon hen) chua chac da dun g hoa n toan , bd i canh hen, chao he n ma khon g dun g nud e he n de na'u thi c o n dau v i ngo t ngon . Mud n c d nd i chao vua deo vu a thorn , ngud i ta ch o the m i t gao nep huong, c o n can c d rau th i l a tha i nh d dao d6 u va an ndng m d i ngon . Chao hen khon g beo ngay, c d v i ngot I d lo , an khon g tha y ngan , thor n ngo n chang thua k e m chao ga! Co n c d tac dun g b o dudn g cho ngud i i t sua de tan g sua nud i con . 70 MIE N LUO N B A PHA N Cam chay, tai de va mie n liran la ba mo n dac san n o i tieng bac nhat 6 Nin h Bin h hien nay. Rieng m o n mien luon , t h lau nhieu ngudi da biet den cua hang Ba Phan. Ba dugc me chong truyen ngh i va tro thanh noi tieng nhat thi xa Nin h Binh t h nhung nam 1960. Ba da qua do i nam 1996, hudng tho 75 tuoi. Ba truyen nghe cho ba ngudi con trai cudi la anh Tran Kha c Tien, Tran Kha c Dun g va con ut la Trdn Kha c Man h (v g anh Man h true tiep lam). Ca ba nha hang con Ba Phan hien d lien nhau cung mdt v i tri , xua thudc thdn True Dd , thi xa Nin h Binh, nay la trung tam thi xa - no i nga t u giua dudng Tran Hun g Dao (qudc Id 1A), mdt nga ra tr g Rdng, mdt nga vao Benh vien tinh . Ca ba hang nay tao thanh mdt diem ban mie n luo n ld n sam ua't va ddng khach nhat tinh Nin h Binh . Mie n luo n d day c d ban quanh nam. Ch md i buo i sdm khoan g sau, bay gi d - trudc gi d lam buo i sang, khac h den an mie n luo n de d td , xe may, xe dap chat nic h ca ma t tien . Huon g thorn cua md n mie n luo n lan tda ngot ngao, chat day 71 ca khon g gia n nga t u dudn g phd . Cua hang mie n luo n Ba Phan ne u nhi n be ngoa i so vd i nhie u han g kha c cun g khon g c d g i n o i trdi , bie n quan g cao ch i de "Da c san mie n luon " rat gia n d i trud c ma i hie n toa nha ha i tang khie m to n c d tan cua ba cay ban g cao tuo i mat me sudt ngay. Duo c hd i chuyen , anh Dun g - ngud i co n trai t h h tu , thao nghe mie n luo n gi a truye n vu i ve ke rang: nghe la m mie n luo n gi a din h anh da trai qua ba dd i va nhi n chun g cun g con g ph u va vat va lam . Tu y han g ch i ba n hai , ba tien g ddn g ho buo i sang, nhun g con g vie c chua n b i pha i tat bat ca ngay. Khoan g ho n chi n gi d th i he't hang, het khach , ca nha bd n ngud i phu c v u lud n tay don dep. Con g vie c tap trun g la m ve sinh : k i co, danh rua ban an, d d dun g that sach. Ca i sach khon g pha i dun g thudc hoa chat (m i pham) nha t thdi ma ch u ye u l a do tac ddn g c o hoc , su tay rua k i cang, ki p thdi , theo dun g nghi a cau: "Nh a sach t h i mat, bat sach ngo n com" . Sudt t h mud i gi d den ho n mud i ha i gid , ca nha 72 tap trun g la m luon : lud c chin , loc lay thit, gi a xuon g chat lay nude . Rien g thit luo n duoc u cun g gi a v i nh u rieng , me, mam torn, nude mam.. . qua ba gi d tham tha'u sau ro i md i dem r i m (sao) k i va de ngudi , sdm ma i dung tiep. Ban ngay ch i duoc ngh i trua choc lat, chieu bo n ngud i tie p tuc lam nhie u viec khac (nh u nhat rau, tha i chudi , lam gi a vi.. . va d i cho mua sam). C a i kh d nhat la lam sao lua chon duoc nhun g m d luo n c d chat luon g cao. Thudn g chon luo n c d m (nh d con), beo khoe , con tuo i tinh , c d lun g m a u hon g nau, bung vang rdm. Loa i luo n nay n h d xuong , thit ran va thorn hon cac loa i khac. C o n hoa chud i cun g pha i chon duoc nhun g chiec banh te co n tuo i nguyen . Khac h hang khoa i kha u nhat la hoa chud i godng , tu y khon g duoc trang bang hoa chud i hot nhun g n d mSm, cd v i chat, bui , ngo t vi m phai, mud n trang kh i ngam nude c h i cl n vdt them t i chanh vao la duoc. Ngoa i ra mie n cun g can cho n loa i duoc che bien t h don g dao nguye n chat, khon g pha tap, c d soi nh d deu, tron g sudt khon g he c d cat cac loa i gi a v i kha c n h u rien g me , nude mam , ma m torn, chanh qua, 73 l a lot , hat tieu , dt... d6u c&n tuo i ngon , khon g dun g cua oi , khon g tham re thudn g "cu a re la cua di , cua day nd i l a cua khon g ngon" . Tat nhie n mie n luo n ngo n co n ph u thud c nhie u vao kin h nghie m bep nuc gi a truySn tron g vie c che bien . Da c bie t dd i vd i vie c gi a giam , li&u luon g than lua , cac chat ph u gi a ch u ye u o ha i khau: r i m luo n (xao ) va nude dung . Sau cun g l a khau l a m rau chud i - th u rat thic h ho p - vd i mie n luon, c d v i chat danh at ho i tanh . Ho a chud i duo c dung dao sac tha i mong , nh d nh u soi thud c lao. Tu y sd thic h cii a khach , di a ra u chud i c d the them rau xa - lach , dau gia , cac loa i rau thorn.. . A n h Dun g co n cho bie t them: d day co n co ban (theo ye u cau dat hang ) md n mie n luo n xao, khon g dun g nude m a ch i xa t khu c luo n ba bon c m xao khan . Md n la u luo n an ke m vd i cac loai r a u tuo i nhun g nh u ra u cue, ra u can... Co n co m d n luo n gd i bun g l a ld c ma i (co n go i l a l a ma i mai): luo n gd i da u phu , thi t ba ch i va c u chudi tha i soi, nin h nhir c d the an cun g vd i bun.. . Nga y ddn g khac h cha han g anh Dun g ban het td i 30 can luon . Khac h den an han g c d ca ngud i nude 74 ngoai, tron g so d o co cac chuye n gi a ngud i Nha t Ban v6 la m vie c d Nin h Bin h cung thudng xuye n den thudn g thhc md n mie n luon . Buo i di u tien, ho c h xoe ca nam dau ngo n tay mac ca gia, thay c h u hang gat di u l a h o rut ra nam ngan ddng ti6n Vie t ra tr a cho md i bat mie n luon , ca chu, khach rat ni6 m nd , vu i ve. Ta t ca nhun g con g doan, nhun g ch i tie't lam m d n mie n luo n do anh Dun g ke tren da la nhung l d i l y gia i r d nhat nguye n nhan v i sao mie n luo n gi a din h Ba Pha'n la i th u hut khac h hang ddn g den the va no i tien g xu a nay. 75 CUO N TO M O que toi co mot mon an dac biet la mon cud n torn. Da c biet, v i mo n nay thudn g ch i ngay tet ngud i ta md i "the hien" , ma la i khon g la m nhieu n h u md n khac . Nhun g gi a din h qua ngheo th i it c d cud n torn, v i md n nay cun g ca u ky , la i la mo n an de "thuon g thhc " l a chinh , ch h khon g cot de no ne, beo bd . A y vay, day md i l a "dac san". Cud n torn la md n an ton g hop . Md i "ca i cudn torn " gd m 7-8 loa i thu c pham va gi a vi : thit Ion ba ch i lud c ky , tha i lat, tor n ran g bdc v d b d diu , trun g ran, gi d lua tha i soi (ban g da u dua, dai khoan g 3 cm ) - tat ca duoc gd i tron g l a rau xa - lac h va rau thorn, ngoa i cun g cud n ca cay hanh ludc , la xanh , c u tran g ndn . Ca i khe o d day la tay n d i tr o cud n torn sao ch o gon , dep mat, ma van "de Id ' cac th h cho sin h ddng , ha p din , tao ra ve dep rieng , nhi n vu i mat: tor n d d au, trhn g ran van g rdm , xa - lac h xan h non , han h hoa ludc cu trin g nd n na doc xan h tron g dep mat... Kh i duoc c h u nhan tiep, gap b d mien g cud n vao bat cho khac h ai chang cam thay vu i ve, ma t me den tan t am can? 76 Nhun g th h tren la san pham rat gan gu i cua non g dan, cun g dt kie m dt tim ; Io n tron g chudng , rau cac loa i no i vud n nha, torn 6 ngoa i dong , tron g ao. Co n g i phan kho i ho n kh i thay tron g ma m c d tet nha min h la i co di a cudn torn d u ma u sac, huon g que den the! G i d day, nhat la no i thanh thi , kin h te kha gia, nhie u ngud i chan ca thi t Ion , thit bd va ca, ti m den md n "khoa i khau " vSn ti6m an, co truye n n o i dan gia , tron g d d c d md n cudn torn. Cud n torn an khon g ngan, rat ngo n mieng , vd i v i bui , ngot tham cua torn, v i ng&y ngo n cua thit, trhng , nhun g v i mat, ngot thorn cua rau, hanh, nhun g v i chua, cay, ngot, day mu i nhan nhat cua nude cham, dac bie t la nude cham cd huon g v i ca cudn g ddn g chiem. Kh i an ngud i ta dun g dua hoac di a dan ngap mien g cud n vao nude cham ma an md t each ngo n lanh. D a n que td i truye n bao: ngud i biet "an " cud n torn md i bie t "lam " cud n torn kheo. Mien g cud n torn pha i sao cho chat che, day dan de tao su cam giac vie n man , cang day huon g v i ma u sic thd n que. 77 BAN H GA I CA M GI A Co lan d i tren tau Thon g Nha t doan Nh a Trang - Thanh pho H o Ch i Minh , to i co tro chuyen vo l m o t bac da dun g tuoi, ngud i micm Nam . Bac ho i toi d dau. To i that tha: d Lan g Cam Gia , tin h Nin h Binh . Bac bdn g m d to dd i mat, v d va i td i nh u phat hien ra dieu g i th u v i lam: No i anh c d th h banh gai ngon no i tieng phai khong? Td i ng d ngang chua ki p tra ldi , bac da nd i tiep: Td i da duoc an banh gai C am Gi a va thudc ca cau tuc ngu : "Ban h gai Cam Gia , banh la L a Phu " cua que anh day. G a n day, d o tin h cd , td i la i duo c doc doan th u t h ben Phap gu i ve\ Ngud i vie t l a tha n nha n mot g i a din h o lan g Ca m Gia , x a Nin h Khanh , huyen H o a Lu . Sau nhun g ld i ca ngo i ca i thor n ngon ddc dao cua ban h ga i Ca m Gia , ngud i vie t nhac nhd : tet sau (tet Nguye n Dan ) kh i gu i sang Phap pha i nh d sd ban h ga i pha i nhie u ho n ban h chung b d n na m la n ay nhe, v i d day c d rat nhie u ngud i thic h an th h ban h ga i nay... Ngh e la m ban h ga i d lan g Ca m Gi a c d t h bao g i d chua a i bie t duoc . Cd ba bd n ngud i cao tuo i nhat lan g hie n co n sdng ban g ngh e na y cun g chi 78